Where the hell's my oil goin'???

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[92wbody442]

Okay, changed my oil pan/ gasket a month or so ago due to a bent pan.  Now, no leak but, it's like a baby sucking down a bottle in the morning.  I'm loosing about a quart a week now.  No oil in coolant, no coolant in oil. 

I believe my exhaust is fried (rusted from dp to muffler) b/c the previous owner garaged it 13 of the 17 years of existance (dunno how true that is, but it had 72,xxx miles when I got it, sooo).  And seems like the gas is burning up just as fast lately.  And, I'm getting an O2 code and EGR code to boot which leads me to believe my exh sys has failed.

Also getting a rattle from the engine that sounds like valves.  Hasn't done it till now since Hell, I mean Ohio is froze over.

What's yer thawt?

[Mike]

Haven't a clue. Since I bought my car in August I've lost exactly one quart of oil. It disappeared in the course of a week. It only happened once. Always smells like burning oil though.

[94CutlassVert]

the rattle if it is intermittant and coming from the left side of the engine. it may be an idler pully like mine as for the oil these engines do burn a quart every 2500 miles but oviously yours is much more so idk

[Prospeeder]

Well replace the oxygen sensor, there hardly good for 20-30k, its probably original with 74k on it, thats the code for that. And the EGR codes probably the awful digital EGR like my 6000 has that is notorious for problems. Rotton exhaust isnt going to cause either issue so dont worry. The oil pump drive seal is the most common "mysterious" leak. Rear valve cover gasket, bad PCV system sucking oil are usually the most mysterious.

[92wbody442]

Well replace the oxygen sensor, there hardly good for 20-30k, its probably original with 74k on it, thats the code for that. And the EGR codes probably the awful digital EGR like my 6000 has that is notorious for problems. Rotton exhaust isnt going to cause either issue so dont worry. The oil pump drive seal is the most common "mysterious" leak. Rear valve cover gasket, bad PCV system sucking oil are usually the most mysterious.

hmm, wouldn't say the valve cover.  just had uim/lim done and the guy is one of the best shops in town.  i'd think he'd check that one.  the pump seal could be a good poss. 
how fun, i get to take the whole under side out again.  at least i know what to do this time to tear it down.  took me several days just to figure how to get the oil pan out.
just replaced the pcv valve when i did the oil pan.  the elbows on the pipe were rotted out so i just put some rubber hosing on the pipes and hooked them to the vc's.  couldn't i just get 2 valve cover breather filters and put them on?

[crazy k]

STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! take a flashlight and look down at the oil drive seal.  DO YOU SEE OIL????

here's good info (by me)  This applies to a LQ1, but the info is similar for other motors... I don't know what you have, after all......  it will be easier on a different motor, and you can pull the shaft out and not cut the paper ring.

There is a specific O-ring for this job. Go to your dealer and get the BROWN ring. they will know what you need. ask for a "OIL DRIVE O-RING" there or any reputable parts shop.

next.. GET A PAPER GASKET. One for a 1980 anything chevy v6 will work, but you can make your own. WHY? You should DOUBLE GASKET this seal. I do on all the 60V6s I've ever touched.

You cannot reach O-ring on the drive gear due to clearance on this motor (91-95 for sure) You must make the clearance.

CLEARANCING HEAD: I do not like hacking the head completely, so instead I removing maybe 1/4 inch of material with a hacksaw blade from the area right above the seal. This leaves the bolt from the lower intake functional, but thins the tab of metal hanging below it. You will need to remove a little of the very lowest portion of the bolt's hole.

CLEARANCING OIL GEAR:Next, I recess the "freeze-plug" type cover in the center of the drive-gear by tapping it down from above with a couple linked 3/8" extensions, turning it (or moving the extension) so the plug moves uniformly. Using the hacksaw blade again, I notch into the top of the drive-gear level with the top of the recessed cap. Cut about 1/4 of the radius, and a quick tap with a screwdriver will pop the cut section off. hack the edges clean, and even sand to de-bur so you don't damage the new o-ring.

The gear should lift high enough to have the bottom of the O-ring at or above the level of the block. Cut or break the old ring out. Grease or oil the new ring and the drive-gear cap (I prefer dielectric grease) and slip it over the cap, stretching it over and sliding it down until in position. Degrease the area and get the paper gasket. Cut the paper gasket and rub it with a RTV sealant. wrap it around the oil drive, make sure it is straight and slam that oil-drive gear home and bolt it down.

p.s. link to images of what I did:
http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c214/Crazy_Ken/LQ1%20oil%20drive%20fix/

[92wbody442]

Thanks Ken.  Yeah, I have the LQ1.  Not too familiar with the engine over all but I'm learning quickly.  Where do I find the oil drive at?  Underneath the intake mani.?  If that's where it is, shouldn't that have been in the intake gasket set?

[crazy k]

Thanks Ken.  Yeah, I have the LQ1.  Not too familiar with the engine over all but I'm learning quickly.  Where do I find the oil drive at?  Underneath the intake mani.?  If that's where it is, shouldn't that have been in the intake gasket set?

no.  carefully read what I have posted... and look at all the pics.  the OFFICIAL proper repair requires HEAD removal.  this repair is an acceptable substitute and I have logged 5000 miles on this repair so far.  Buy the REVISED O-ring.  It is BROWN SILICONE.  you must get it at a dealer.  cost?  about $3 (may vary dealer to dealer)  Intake gasket kits that DO include an o-ring (3100 and 3400 gasket kits) do not contain the REVISED ring.

here is more info, and where I posted this same info, too:
http://60degreev6.com/forum/f72/fix-top-side-distributer-plug-leak-t37004#post397106

[92wbody442]

Oops, that would require me to read the "CLEARANCING THE HEAD" part   Been a long day at the office already.

[SofaKingWeToddDid]

ill bet on oil pump drive seal. dont listen to people who say you need to take the back head off, you dont. theres ways past it. i fixed mine without grinding anything and i still lose some oil, but like 1L a month, and i burn over a tank a week in gas. so its not like im not getting my moneys worth. i leak more power steering fluid right now than anything anyways!! lol

[92wbody442]

Eh, our wonderful cars are just like old folks.... Always leaking from some place and we just have to clean up their mess some how.

[Mike]

Eh, our wonderful cars are just like old folks.... Always leaking from some place and we just have to clean up their mess some how.

And unfortunately sometimes they end up in the old folks home, when you can't take care of them anymore.

[Chris]

And unfortunately sometimes they end up in the old folks home, when you can't take care of them anymore.

Hey, that's were my car might end up. Heath care for her is getting to expensive, especially since she's been in a coma for about 6 months.

[SofaKingWeToddDid]

i think im just gonna let mine keep its ailments till spring when things get warmer and i can work in my own driveway. assholes at work always try lead me the wrong way....

when i went to change my thermostat, my asshole boss pointed out the lower rad hose and said "theres where it is, right where this hose connects to the block" yeah try the upper rad hose. lol

[92wbody442]

niiice work boss. heh heh.