OBD version 2.0 swap (56K beware)

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[3100MPFI]

Well.....  After I blew up the engine in my gold car (1988 Cutlass Supreme with the 3100 MPFI, 4T60-E), I have not been able to get it to run right after I fixed it.  I have done everything that I can think of all to no avail.  Time to pull out the big guns.

I am doing an OBD2 swap.  I started it today.  I started pulling the old wiring out, but the way it is twisted around in there, I think I am going to have to pull the engine out just to get the wiring out.  No big deal seeing I have to pull the engine out anyways to swap out the tranny (replacing the 1993 4T60-E with my 1996 4T60-E).

I am going to have to do a lot of interior wiring as well.  I have to add in the pass key shit, so since the dash has to come out, I am going to do some isolation and padding to help get rid of the squeeks and rattles.

I got about half of the wiring out today, but I think I have to start getting the engine apart to get the rest out.  Seems to be routed under the engine, then next to the tranny.  No biggie.

I am going to try to REALLY document this in case others decide to go the same route later on.

time for pics:

This is all of the new 1996 wiring pulled straight from my wrecked 1996 Grand Prix.  It is all of it from the C100 firewall connector, to the passthrough under the brake booster.  I also have both of the fuse blocks.  I am not sure how extreme I am going to go with this, but in the worst case senario, I can go ALL OUT.



This is the new PCM and the 3100 ALT.  I also have the spare ECM for my 1990 Grand Prix in there, but the silver one is what is going in my gold car.



This is all of the wiring out of the ECM area under the coolant resevoir.  I removed the stock ECM holder seeing that I can't use it for the newer PCM.  I will also have to try to use the newer COOLANT RESEVOIR.



More of the wiring coming out.



And last of all, these pics show why I don't like the OPTIMA BATTERIES.  I had one EXPLODE in my car, and the dry cell shit in there caused this damage to the hood.



And if you look to the right of that big ratchet, you can see that the side is all flakey and messed up as well.  I am going to have to get some paint on there before it starts to REALLY rust.

[AWeb80]

you blow my mind.

[LownSlow]

sweet.  im hoping to do obd2 pretty soon, but i may have to put 94+ cams back in  

[3100MPFI]

I have to put the stock cam and heads back on this engine.  The main reason I am having issues is that I need a custom tune to get it to run.  It is still tuned for the HIGH COMPRESSION (12.5:1), and I went back to the stock compression (9.6:1).  So it throws in WAY too much fuel.  

My friend Lorenzo (GPSE3400 over on 60degreev6) pulled this cam and saw that his valve springs has destroyed it.  He and I have the SAME valve springs (Corvette LS6).  Meaning what happened to his is going to happen to mine, so I have to swap the heads out for the stock heads.  I also haev to put the stock cam back in because my cam is a high revver, and without the LS6 springs, I get a LOT of valve float.

I am just going to reset the car back to a STOCK 3100 and STOCK 4T60-E.  Since I am using the OBD2 computer, I have to swap out my tranny.  The one in the car now is a 1993 4T60-E with a 3.73:1 final drive, and I will put in the stock 1996 with the 3.33:1 final drive.

The difference between me and other OBD2 swaps is the year of my car.  It is a 1988.  Most of the people that do this have 1994's which are already set up to SFI, so the wiring is MINIMAL.  A lot can do it with just a PCM swap, and add some things (the second O2 sensor, MAF, etc).  I have to rewire the whole car to be OBD2.

[3100MPFI]

I forgot to add that I am mostly doing this just so I can get the car back on the road.  I have 4 W-bodies, and all of them are off the road.  

The good thing about doing all of the OBD2 shit is that in the future, I can swap in a 3400 and the wiring be MINIMAL.  If any.

[3100MPFI]

Since I am swapping in the OBD2 crap, I have to add the PASSKEY.  I have to put in the passkey decoder no matter what, but I was thinking that I would like to use the actualy key with the chip in it rather than do the bypass, so I decided to take the steering column out of my wrecked car to get it out.  

I decided to post the pics showing how the steering column comes apart just so people can know what all is involved.

Once I got the lock cylinder out I saw that it will probably not work.  The end piece is totally different.  I am going to try it anyways (it is a lot easier to swap the key in the older steering column than the newer one.

If I can't use the key, I might try to find a different one, or I might do one of my SECRET ideas.

:twisted:

Here are the pics of the disassembly of my 1996 Steering column.

First of all, you have to get this little sumbitch out.  This little snapring is what holds the lockplate down on the column.  This took me almost an hour with a friend helping me to get out because I did not have the right tools.  Now that I have done it, I don't think I will ever have that problem again.



This is the lockplate after I got the snapring out, and ready to pull it up and out.



This is with the lockplate removed and the HORN CAM exposed



Horn cam removed, and the turn signal switch exposed.  I just had to pull the 2 screws for the silver arm on the wiper switch, pull that out, then remove the 3 screws that hold the turn signal switch down.





Now you have to pull out the white thing with the 2 copper terminals (kinda hard to do), then remove the upper flat top torx screw to get the ignition lock cylinder out.



And here it is with everything removed, the lock cylinder out, and getting ready to put it aside.



This is all the parts that came out of the steering column, minus the little PITA snapring that held the lock plate in.  After I took the pic of it and made sure it turned out, I threw that thing as far and as hard as I could.



And here is the cylinder out of the column and in my hot little hand,



and here is the exposed chip that makes the passkey work.

[DiscoStudd]

Same pics are posted here, sans the lock cylinder pics:

http://tss.likeabigdog.com

[Jay]

First of all, you have to get this little sumbitch out.  This little snapring is what holds the lockplate down on the column.  This took me almost an hour with a friend helping me to get out because I did not have the right tools.  Now that I have done it, I don't think I will ever have that problem again.

Hmm...There's a lock plate remover in my tool box... lol But a long drive to borrow it.

[3100MPFI]

damn.  Oh well.  Got it out.

DiscoStudd, the only thing about that site, is that they dont show how to get the ignition cylinder out.  

Good thing it is a lot easier to do in the older cars.

[DiscoStudd]

That's my write-up!  I know it's too late now, but it could've helped you with your lock plate retainer dilemma.  :wink:  Plus I included a blow-up diagram of the column so one can see how it's assembled.

I've had a ton of these "saginaw" style columns apart, and lemme tell ya, it pays to have a lock plate compressor!!!

[3100MPFI]

Now I gotta figure out a way to use the newer key in the older column.

Don't think that will work, however.

[3100MPFI]

Got a lot more done today that I was expecting.  At this time, all I have to do is remove the STARTER, CROSSOVER, FLEX PLATE BOLTES, MOTOR MOUNT NUTS, and the BELLHOUSING BOLTS, and the engine can come out.

I got the stock wiring out today.  That is, I HOPE, the worst of it.  I only had to cut 2 wires (for the pressure switch on the power steering rack).

I also comparted the 3 different alternators for my car.  The one on the LEFT is the stock 3100SFI.  The one in the MIDDLE is the 135-140 amp that I was using in the gold car.  The one of the RIGHT is the stock 2.8/3.1.





Using an ENGINE TILTER tool, I was able to disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the TOP of the car.  This is the main reason that I prefer using the 2000 Lumina 3100 rear exhaust manifold, and downpipe.




After 4 cuts, smashed knuckles, and countless obsenities, I FINALLY got the old harness out of the car.  In all honesty, I did not have near as much trouble getting the new harness out of the pink car than this sumbitch gave me.



Here the car sits as it pretty much was when I left it.  The only thing different is that I went ahead and took the crossover heatshield off, but I left the crossover on.



One thing about the pink car is that it had that weird canister purge.  Does anyone know what the big deal was with it?






That is my pregress as of now.  Tomorrow, I might try to get under it to get the rest undone, but I most likely will not be able to pull the engine until this weekend.

[Jay]

What is that big amp alternator off of?

[3100MPFI]

A friend picked it up for me at a yard, but I think it was off of one of the 3400 MINIVANS.

I think it came off of a Transport, or Silhouette.

If you look it up online, it lists as a 145 amp on like a 1998 Silhouette with the 3400.

I really dont need that kinda output.  It is nice to have, but I think it was kinda OVERKILL in my car.

[Jay]

New battery, cables and alternator in my car and it still shows 10.9 volts at idle with the a/c, lights and stereo (no amp or anything) on....Thinking I might have to upgrade the alternator or do the "big 3."