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Author *Topic: Light puttering under idle  (Read 2437 times)
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« Reply #45 on: March 10, 2010, 05:27:00 PM »

i got one that burns oil.... but that's only because it likes to suck it up through the PCV...
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« Reply #46 on: March 10, 2010, 07:47:27 PM »

Sooo replace the PCV valve? Does it actually blow blue smoke. Even a tiny drop will puff. If your just seeing oily residue and maybe a tiny pudle in the throttle body thats totally normal, iv yet to see a car that isnt like that
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« Reply #47 on: March 10, 2010, 10:14:52 PM »

Sooo replace the PCV valve? Does it actually blow blue smoke. Even a tiny drop will puff. If your just seeing oily residue and maybe a tiny pudle in the throttle body thats totally normal, iv yet to see a car that isnt like that

that is exactly what happens, but i'm not sure if it's going at a faster rate or what, but it sucks up about an extra quart every oil change (3-5K miles). no puffs of smoke, though the cat would mask that a bit anyway.
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« Reply #48 on: March 10, 2010, 11:42:40 PM »

I get blue smoke on most start-ups, especially warm ones. It may be PCV issues though IDK
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« Reply #49 on: March 11, 2010, 06:31:08 AM »

I get blue smoke on most start-ups, especially warm ones. It may be PCV issues though IDK

Every 60*v6 engine I've owned has done this. Not so much blue smoke, but the smell of oil burning through the exhaust.
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« Reply #50 on: March 11, 2010, 09:59:24 AM »

Every 60*v6 engine I've owned has done this. Not so much blue smoke, but the smell of oil burning through the exhaust.

Its a first for me, and there is definitely smoke.
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« Reply #51 on: March 11, 2010, 10:35:30 AM »

I neglected to change my PCV valve until 208k miles. Oops...
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« Reply #52 on: March 11, 2010, 11:05:22 AM »

I neglected to change my PCV valve until 208k miles. Oops...

slightly more involved than a 3100 IIRC... swapping one for me takes no more than 10 seconds.
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« Reply #53 on: March 11, 2010, 11:33:45 AM »

slightly more involved than a 3100 IIRC... swapping one for me takes no more than 10 seconds.

Actually it was extremely quick. I just didn't do it because I never thought to get it done. It was literally twisting the cap off the upper plenum, pulling out he spring and the valve, and putting in the new one. I can't say I noticed too much of a difference after changing it though. How often are you supposed to change it?
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« Reply #54 on: March 11, 2010, 12:08:12 PM »

alldata says every 15K miles it should be checked, if not replaced...
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« Reply #55 on: March 11, 2010, 03:24:57 PM »

If your smokin at startup that valve stem seals. The oil leaks down the guides down the valves and burns it off at startup. if they get bad enough, youll notice it at stop lights or extended idle, the high vacuum actually draws oil down the worn seal. My TGP w/ 83k nor my 6000's 3.1 with 240k use oil between changes. I did headgaskets and it still looked like brand new, resealed it all. Been great.
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« Reply #56 on: March 12, 2010, 10:48:01 AM »

If your smokin at startup that valve stem seals. The oil leaks down the guides down the valves and burns it off at startup. if they get bad enough, youll notice it at stop lights or extended idle, the high vacuum actually draws oil down the worn seal. My TGP w/ 83k nor my 6000's 3.1 with 240k use oil between changes. I did headgaskets and it still looked like brand new, resealed it all. Been great.

Good to know!!! Thanks
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« Reply #57 on: March 31, 2010, 10:34:55 PM »

Quote from: mra32;900822
bigass brush with simple green or purple power would probably do the job in minutes.


So I cleaned up the heads with a wire brush and they look great.

I later discovered that the rocker bolts on these heads are 3/8", and on mine they're 5/16", which is a big problem because I have roller rockers on there and the fulcrums are hardened steel and can't be drilled. So for another $160, I took them to a machine shop and had them drill out the original threads, tap them, and screw in 1/2" to 5/16" inserts. I needed them to be very precise, so its not something I could have done without a drill press.

I also tore apart most of my engine and got the front head off. Still need to get to the rear one after I disconnect the downpipe, but most everything is off the engine. The head I took off really doesn't look too bad. All of the valves seem to be in decent shape, so we'll see if the burned valve is on the rear head.

After a while I got sick of unbolting shit so i started porting my new heads, and made some massive improvements with the exhaust ports. I'm 100% sure this will make a huge difference. You can see the size of the actual exhaust manifold in black around the port, just to give you an idea of how tiny these ports really are.

This was all done with grinding stones on my dremel and my cordless drill. I wish I had my air die grinder back.












I kept the ports d-shaped as they were from the factory because A. there isn't much you can do with the floor of the ports as far as flow goes, and B. they were made that way to prevent reversion.

I still have to do some light sanding to smooth out the ports a bit, but that's where I am so far.
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« Reply #58 on: April 01, 2010, 04:53:25 PM »

think it'll push you into the 9 second mark? smile
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« Reply #59 on: April 01, 2010, 07:51:43 PM »

6's in the 0-60 and 15's in the 1/4 mile.
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