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Author *Topic: Light puttering under idle  (Read 2446 times)
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« Reply #15 on: February 22, 2010, 02:40:13 PM »

4 years driving my '92 and it went from rust free, to the trialing arm mounts literally rotting right off the car.
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« Reply #16 on: February 22, 2010, 02:42:40 PM »

Not sure about all this rust you guys are getting there, but at least here, its minimal by comparison. My fiance's sister's 96 Regal with 115k has absolutely no body panel rust, and the underside is just light surface rust.

4 years in Illinois now and my car has no signs of any significant rust.

The GP has been a PA car all of its life. Light surface rust underneath and a rust spot on each quarter panel, about as big as a quarter, where the plastic cladding meets the body. That's all the visible rust there is.
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« Reply #17 on: February 22, 2010, 02:46:41 PM »

The GP has been a PA car all of its life. Light surface rust underneath and a rust spot on each quarter panel, about as big as a quarter, where the plastic cladding meets the body. That's all the visible rust there is.

Must be the Luminas.
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« Reply #18 on: February 22, 2010, 03:34:12 PM »

You should have seen my S10...

Hell, you should see the S10 I just bought off my friend. I touched the rocker panel and an 18" section just fell off. lol
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« Reply #19 on: February 22, 2010, 04:18:25 PM »

Must be the Luminas.
X2. my 91 regal almost looked brand new underneath (BARELY any rust on anything) shit, even the gas tank could be lowered without snapping the strap bolts!!
my lumina? fuck i can poke my finger through the rear bumper core!!
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« Reply #20 on: March 07, 2010, 11:54:35 AM »

It seems my LQ1 must have a burned valve as well..............

Same puttering, plus sucked the dollar in.
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« Reply #21 on: March 07, 2010, 12:11:18 PM »

It seems my LQ1 must have a burned valve as well..............

Same puttering, plus sucked the dollar in.

and with 12 exhaust valves to choose from, have fun!
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« Reply #22 on: March 07, 2010, 12:50:38 PM »

and with 12 exhaust valves to choose from, have fun!

Or just drive it till it blows up!!! biggrin
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« Reply #23 on: March 07, 2010, 02:56:49 PM »

Or just drive it till it blows up!!! biggrin

isn't that how most Ws live their life? lol
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« Reply #24 on: March 07, 2010, 03:57:59 PM »

Or just drive it till it blows up!!! biggrin

If you don't mind the lack of power (power being the only upside to owning an LQ1), and the decreased fuel economy due to wasted compression, sure you could still drive it, but at that point you would probably have been better off with a 3100.
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« Reply #25 on: March 07, 2010, 04:59:44 PM »

If you don't mind the lack of power (power being the only upside to owning an LQ1), and the decreased fuel economy due to wasted compression, sure you could still drive it, but at that point you would probably have been better off with a 3100.
3800 swap
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« Reply #26 on: March 07, 2010, 05:44:58 PM »

3800 swap

Doesn't buck have a late model 3800 powered lumina that he replaced the lim gaskets and uim on, and also had the transmission rebuilt? IIRC he bought it less than half a year ago, so in essence he does have a 3800.

Buck, I hope you didn't pay too much for that LQ1 car. I haven't been keeping too much track of your cars lately, but a burned valve is only going to get worse.

A valve burns for many reasons, but the short story is that the valve doesn't seat properly under a high load. An exahust valve runs at 1300 degrees F normally. While the intake valve is cooled by the incoming air, 75% of the exhaust valve's cooling is done when the cylinder head  absorbs the heat through the valve seat. There are a vast number of reasons why a valve would not seat properly, but once the valve burns, the valve can either crack, chip, or simply make a horrible contact with the head, and that's something that will only continue to get worse. Because one or more valves is not making a good seal anymore, you will lose compression in those cylinders, which means your engine will run rougher, and your performance and fuel economy will drop.

At this point I'm doubting if it would be worth it for you to get the issue fixed, but I'm also doubting if it would be worth it for you to keep it. I would sell it while it still runs.

I'm fixing my problem by replacing the heads with low mileage (85k mile) heads off an engine as noted earlier, but my Regal also isn't one that I could run to the ground because of a burned valve.
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« Reply #27 on: March 07, 2010, 09:17:27 PM »

Was a compression test even done yet? Then a leak down on any low cylinders
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« Reply #28 on: March 07, 2010, 09:28:16 PM »

engines at our local junkyard run for less than $200, no matter what engine.

that being said im not sure why i havent bought one to rebuild or swap into my lumina.
I would LOVE an L67 Z34, and its been done a million (ok not that many) but alot of times before... so the path is set i just have to follow it
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« Reply #29 on: March 07, 2010, 10:33:40 PM »

Was a compression test even done yet? Then a leak down on any low cylinders

I haven't done a compression test myself, but I'm also fairly sure that I do indeed have a bad valve. Ring wear would not cause the kind of puttering I'm hearing here, plus the dollar bill trick, and if my rings were worn that badly, I would imagine I'd be losing a significant amount of oil, which I'm not.

If it turns out I do have ring or piston damage, it will give me a reason to swap in the much stronger S1 L67 rods and pistons with new rings, and I'll have a second pair of heads for porting.
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