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crazy k
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« Reply #15 on: May 02, 2008, 05:20:34 PM » |
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My 1994 book does not cover SGS because it is a CUTLASS SUPREME only book, actually it does. but it is hidden in some out of the way wiring diagram. I found it and was able to do my 94 and 95 3100 cars. But you are saying the blue wire is not in the engine harness of the 95 3.4???? (it was in my two cars) if I find it later I'll post the page for you!
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cause I want you too.
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Jay
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« Reply #16 on: May 02, 2008, 05:38:24 PM » |
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8A-21-8 shows where it goes from the C100 to the PCM.
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3100MPFI
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« Reply #17 on: May 02, 2008, 06:22:24 PM » |
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i'll check it out tomorrow. Well, I do have the car here, but I want to check it down at moms. That way if it does not have it, then I can add it in.
I have put the wire in, and hit the button. The light turns on, but nothing else happens.
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crazy k
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« Reply #18 on: May 02, 2008, 08:47:05 PM » |
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I also need to figure out which wires these are on the 93 3.1 and lq1
say.... have you ever seen the 94-96 GP 2nd gear start switch that has a light in it? I would like to figure out how to make that light work.
I edited.
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cause I want you too.
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3100MPFI
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« Reply #19 on: May 02, 2008, 08:49:20 PM » |
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never seen it light up on the 1994-1996. I have only seen it light up in the 1991-1993 where it is located in the center console. For the 1994-1996, it lights up in the dash.
If you have seen anything other than that, then please show me pics.
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3100MPFI
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« Reply #20 on: May 03, 2008, 09:51:58 PM » |
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I fixed my coolant leak today. The line that goes from the top of the water pump, around the passenger side of the car, across the firewall, and into the heater core. Where that hose attaches to the waterpump, it had a crack in it that would leak when the cooling system would pressureize.  I just removed the hose, cut off the end piece, and put it back on. It is a bit of a tighter fit now, but hey, it works. I will eventually replace the entire assembly, but for now, money is tight, and this works. Here is 2 more pics of the 1995 oil level sensor. As you can see, the oil pan is done differently in that area.   The last thing that I did was tear apart the 1995 twin cam. I wanted to know WHY it blew up. Talk about NASTY in there. First of all, check out the crap in the oil pump pickup.  and look at the ammount of sludge in the bottom of the pan.  This is the MAIN bearings. The connecting rod bearings were actually not too bad. This thing spun a MAIN bearing. This is number 1  number 2  number 3  number 4  It looks to me like the previous owner drove this car EXTENSIVELY with no oil in it. Number 2 was the worst. It was the one that was spinning in the groove. 
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3100MPFI
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« Reply #21 on: May 09, 2008, 12:41:57 PM » |
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Okay. I have had a VACUUM LEAK by the EGR. I have tried 3 times now to fix it. Well, today, I fixed it, but caused a NEW leak.
The vacuum leak was a problem with the EGR adapter. I swapped it out, but I guess when I was undoing it, I messed up the pipe itself, so now I don't have a vacuum leak, but I DO have an EXHAUST leak.
SIGH
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99RegalGS
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« Reply #22 on: May 09, 2008, 03:37:10 PM » |
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I hate those EGR flex pipes. I tore one of mine when I was replacing my LIM gaskets. Thankfully it was the pipe from the EGR to the intake. So it didn't leak ALL the time until I replaced it with the new piece.
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-Sean 99 Regal GS : L67 / 4T65E-HD Mods: 3.5" pulley, 4" FWI, Tinted Headlights, 180* T-stat, Walbro fuel pump, Woodgrain delete, GMPP Handling kit, 04 Radio swap. 
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3100MPFI
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« Reply #23 on: May 09, 2008, 04:35:38 PM » |
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I went to my moms and grabbed a spare pipe. It is not perfect, but I HOPE it will not leak once I put it in.
GM lists a new one as being almost $100.00 There are not any twin cam's left at the local junkyard.
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3100MPFI
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« Reply #24 on: May 09, 2008, 09:54:00 PM » |
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okay. It is FINALLY fixed. Here is the original setup that was causing the VACUUM LEAK. Notice that there is only HALF of a gasket in there.  After I fixed the vacuum leak, I then had an exhaust leak. Here is my EGR tube that I removed from my car.   Yup, it was in 2 pieces. This is the new pipe that I put in.   It was a little creased at the end where the EGR adapter goes, but it does not leak, and that is the most important thing. I also took some pics of the working conditions. Here is the car as I worked on it.  big ass fan to keep me cool.  And the temp at like 6 PM.  I also fixed the vacuum leak that caused the interior vents to not work. I now have AC vents. Now I just need a can or 2 of R134a and I am good to go.
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Jay
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« Reply #25 on: May 09, 2008, 10:34:51 PM » |
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99RegalGS
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« Reply #26 on: May 10, 2008, 03:21:37 PM » |
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Was the a/c system opened at all? or did it just leak out over time?
If the a/c system was opened at all you really should pull the system into a vacuum before you recharge it.
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-Sean 99 Regal GS : L67 / 4T65E-HD Mods: 3.5" pulley, 4" FWI, Tinted Headlights, 180* T-stat, Walbro fuel pump, Woodgrain delete, GMPP Handling kit, 04 Radio swap. 
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3100MPFI
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« Reply #27 on: May 10, 2008, 06:17:11 PM » |
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as far as I know, the AC system has never been opened up. I will see if there is ANY pressure at all, and if not, then I will at least replace the orifice valve before recharging.
I think that for the interior vents not working, it was a pinched vacuum line. I thin that when I installed the brake pedal support bracket that I must have gotten the vaccum line behind it, and crushed it.
I ran a whole new vacuum line (rubber vacuum tube that I ran the the grommet at the firewall) and connected it to the things, and now, the AC vents work fine.
If I do need to vacuum out the AC system, my uncle has a pump for it. He used to do AC systems.
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99RegalGS
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« Reply #28 on: May 11, 2008, 07:00:19 PM » |
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Yeah, any Vacuum pump will be fine.
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-Sean 99 Regal GS : L67 / 4T65E-HD Mods: 3.5" pulley, 4" FWI, Tinted Headlights, 180* T-stat, Walbro fuel pump, Woodgrain delete, GMPP Handling kit, 04 Radio swap. 
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