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[3100MPFI]

I finally got that twin cam running.  It is not perfect, but it is not too bad.  I will have to iron out a few bugs.  Here is what all is still left to do.

ENGINE:
I have a MASSIVE tranny leak.  One of my metal tranny lines where the metal line is crimped to the rubber hose, the crimp is messed up.  I will cut it off tomorrow, and put a hose clamp on it.  The power steering pump is making noise, but I think it might just be air in the system.  I will give it a few days to work the air out and see if the noise goes away.  The power steering seems to work fine otherwise.

EXTERIOR:
I need to replace the rear 2 wheels, and tighten all the lug nuts.  One of the tires has a nail in it (damnit Jay), so I will do a flat repair on it as well.  I also need to put the HOOD on the car.  I remove the hood whenever I am doing a lot of work to the engine so that I am not constantly bent over.  It really helps my back.  I also need to give the car a good waxing.  I have never done it, and it probably needs it.  One of the foglights is out.  The houseing is cracked, and everything.  I think I am going to do something custom with them.  Also, the passenger side front turn signal (center of the car) is messed up.  It is tilted upwards.  Tomorrow I will pull it apart and see what is going on in there.

INTERIOR:
I need to reinstall the knee bolster on the steering column.  I also need to make a cover for the HUD, but that can wait until later.  I lost the clip that holds the shifter knob in.  I need to find one, and get it in there.  




Once the car was running, the only dash lights I am getting is for LOW OIL LEVEL, and ABS.  I don't know what is going on with the ABS.  I do know that I could not find one of my wheel speed sensors, so I stuck a different one on there.  It is possible that the one I put on there is bad.  Before I go and start second guessing myself, I am going to get the car scanned, and try to fix it.  I tested the automatic headlights (which I added in), and they work fine, but it was too dark to test the DRL's.  

On to the PICS

First the interior.  This is the cluster with the car running.  There is only 4 idiot lights on.  They are FASTEN SEATBELTS, ABS, BRAKE, and LOW OIL LEVEL.



This is the radio on.  It is a BOSE radio with BOSE speakers and BOSE amp.  It works really well, but for some reason, when you first turn it on, it has a feedback.  I think that is because I am using the newer BOSE radio with the older BOSE amp.



Here is the engine fully assembled.



Another pic of the engine finished.  All I have to do to the exterior at this point is replace the rear wheels with the newer ones, and put the hood back on the car.  Then it will be ready for a road test (after I fix the tranny fluid leak that is).



Lastly, here is 2 video's.  They are both of the car running.  One is interior and one is exterior.  I still have some minor work to do to smooth it out, but this is a HUGH step for progress.

[Jay]

EXTERIOR:
I need to replace the rear 2 wheels, and tighten all the lug nuts.  One of the tires has a nail in it (damnit Jay), so I will do a flat repair on it as well.

Oh bite me...:nana:

Listen to this guy...I gave him pretty much everything to get this car going...Free engine...Free transmission...Free tires and wheels...And about half my parts car for free and he complains.

 But I made him work for those parts.

You know I'm just fuckin' with ya...Good to see it running!

[3100MPFI]

That is what I love about you.....

Anyways.....

Yeah, it is a relief, but I need to get that tranny leak fixed.  It is not a little DRIP DRIP DRIP.  It is actually a STREAM of fluid that comes out.  I lost about half a quart in only 45-60 seconds of running the engine.

[LownSlow]

awesome news.  looks like a nice car.

[tijuana_no]

good news !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[SofaKingWeToddDid]

sounds not too bad...  and the transmission leak could be worse... i tried to move my century the other day and its only got reverse... hahaha

[3100MPFI]

[3100MPFI]

I drove the car today.  Not too bad.  There is some things that I need to do, but it looks like the only MECHANICAL problem is the ABS and BRAKE light being on.  I will scan that later.

On the interior, my power door lock switches don't work, but the auto door locks, and keyless entry work fine.  Also, my power mirrors don't work, and my AC will not switch off of DEFROST.

Here is a vid of me driving the car.  It is hard to see anything, but you can at least hear the car.



Now for some pics.

This is the ENGINE.

SOFUCKINGRETARDED, I cleaned it some just for you:




The wheels:


The EXTERIOR:







I installed the DRL's, and made them so they light up the fog lights.  Unfortunantly, one of my bulbs is burned out, but anyways, you get the idea.






And now the INTERIOR:

[SofaKingWeToddDid]

looks really nicewhen its clean.

hey i have a name ya know!! -Clinton is what it says on my drivers license.

ive never seen that degreaser before... how does it come out? ...the texture of it.

[LownSlow]

there aren't too many engines that sound as good as them when accelerating  

i love the engine pic on the degreaser can (probably why you posted that pic )

[3100MPFI]

Yeah, that degreaser can pic is awesome.  It just comes out as an almost thick liquid.  I will try to get some pics of it later.

[3100MPFI]

I did some more too it.  I fixed the power door lock switches, and the power mirror switch.  Turns out the passenger door lock switch was messed up and staying pressed causeing the fuse to blow.

I replaced the mast for the power antenna, and it now works.

I removed the bulb for the LOW OIL LEVEL light, but that causes the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light to come on.  Something about an indicator control circuit malcfunction, so tomorrow, I am going to pull the cluster back out, black out the oil level light and put the bulb back in.  That way it can light up all it wants too, and I don't have to see it.

I do have 2 fluid leaks.  One is coolant coming from the hose that attaches near the water pump and goes around to the heater core.  The other is the transmissions driveshaft seal on the passenger side.  I think I will just stick a bottle of lucas in there, and be done with it.

[3100MPFI]

Okay.  I removed the bulb for the LOW OIL LEVEL light, but that made the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light come on, so I had to put the bulb back in.  I had to make a small modification to my cluster so that the light could come on still, but I couldn't see it.  

The first thing I did was remove the cluster from the car and totally dismantle it.



This is the face plate of the gauges.  



Here is a closeup of all the idiot lights.






This is the back of the face plate.





This is a closeup of the LOW OIL LEVEL indicator backside.



And this is what I did to it to block it out.  I covered it with black electrical tape so that it will not let light through.



And here it is all blacked out.

[crazy k]

I thought the sensor was very easy to add to the engine?  I would have done that instead?  and is this car getting second gear start?   tape out "off" before reassembly!!!!

[3100MPFI]

I can't add the sensor.  The oil pan is different.  The 1995 oil pan is recessed where the sensor goes.  The 1994 pan is solid straight across.  If I was to add the sensor to the 1994 pan, then it would hit up against the starter.

Eventually, I will get around to swapping out the oil pans.  But for now, this works.  Since I have done this with the tape, the SES light has not come on at all.

I just left it so the TRACTION OFF light comes on.  I am the only one that needs to know what it means.  I have not totally hooked up the wire.  It is going to the C100 connector, but I have not put the new wire on the engine side.  My 1994 book does not cover SGS because it is a CUTLASS SUPREME only book, and my 1996 book does not help me because it is for the newer OBD 2 PCM which is TOTALLY different.