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Author *Topic: finally got my new engine  (Read 4396 times)
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3100MPFI
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« on: February 17, 2007, 08:50:29 PM »

I went to a local junkyard and found an engine to replace my knocking 3.4 DOHC in my 1995 Cutlass Supreme SL.  It is a 1994 3.4 DOHC from a Lumina Z34.  I think I lucked out.

First of all, I only paid $150.00 for a COMPLETE engine.  It came with the AC compressor, Alternator, Power Steering Pump, ALL the wiring going to the firewall, crossover, and downpipe.  They also included the front mount (I told them I did not want the rear mount, but I did want the rear mount bracket).

Turns out that the engine had been rebuilt, but they could not get it to run.  

Here is whatall is wrong.

The crank position sensor is messed up.
The rear spark plugs are OLD, and BLACK.
The rear plug wires are different from the front wires, and are also old.
The front spark plugs were MISSING!!!!!
The cam timing was WAY OFF (looks like a botched 13* retard).

By the looks of it, I can just do new plugs (I already have the wires), and retime it, and it will be good to go.

Here are some pics:









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AWeb80
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« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2007, 09:05:00 PM »

nice pick up.....hows the inside look....


these guys sounded like m3gga n00bs.....

how hard is it to look for spark plugs.....geez.
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3100MPFI
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« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2007, 09:24:14 PM »

Actually, I had to use pliers to get the front wires out.  They were in there pretty good.  That is why I thought there was a BIGGER problem.  After fighting for about 10 minutes to get the front wires out (trying not to break them), I could not get the spark plug socket onto anything.  I finally got a wire probe and felt down in there, and it went into the cylinder.

I am beginning to wonder if they did not complete it on PURPOSE.  Meaning, I think there might be a problem with the spark plug threads.  I will test fit the old plugs into it.  Hopefully they are not stripped out.

So far, the insides all look good.  I still need to take the oil pan off.  I am going to install a crank scraper before I drop it into the car, so I will throughly check the crank out then.

Keep in mind that I am installing this to replace my KNOCKING twin cam, so I want to be sure that I am not going to be in the same boat when this is all said and done.

I still need to do some work to the interior.  Here is the interior as it was at the end of the day today:

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« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2007, 09:40:32 PM »

wow,....you sure know how to tear w's apart...lol


look forward to finished pics and product though.
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3100MPFI
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« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2007, 09:49:32 PM »

you are not the only one.

I am updating the interior wiring to pretty much 1996 standards.  

On the interior, I have completely added DRL's, and Second Gear Start.  I even wired it up so that when the SGS is active, the TRACTION OFF light will turn on.

On that interior pic, the wires on the seat next to the steering wheel, those are for the HUD.  The HUD DIMMER is totally wired up already.  I also have to connect 1 wire for the DRL DIODE (that is the BLUE WIRE next to the brake pedal.  I also have to connect that blue wire under the hood.  I am going to wire it up so that the DRL's Turn on the FOG LIGHTS instead of the HEADLIGHTS.

I haven't even showed you guys what I have planned for the EXTERIOR, but that is still a secret.

And the biggest shame is, I am adding in the HUD, but in the summer, I am going to start a NEW interior project in this car.

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« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2007, 08:37:41 AM »

good stuff.

i've gotten 2 whole cars in deals like that - "i cant get it to run" - one was a $300 beautiful 91 cutlass 3.4 sedan that there were no coils/ICM,  one was a pickup that had no injectors in it.  both wound up being perfect runners.  gotta love it when you get stuff cheap because the people who have it don't know what they are doing.
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« Reply #6 on: February 18, 2007, 09:35:13 AM »

wow, looks like a perfect time for 5-speed swap since you have the dash out smile  good luck with the new engine!
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« Reply #7 on: February 18, 2007, 10:19:33 PM »

I was going to do the 5-speed swap, but now I have a couple of things that will KEEP me from doing it.  

First of all, Getrag 284's are RARE down here.  I have not seen any 5-speed W-bodies down here in about 7 years.

Second, it takes a LOT more work to get the 5-speed into the 1995-1997 Cutlass Supreme.  The Brake Pedal Bracket in the 1995-1997 is different, and to use the older one, you have to totally modify the cross car support for the dash.  More work than I want to do right now.

And the MAIN REASON I will not do the 5-speed swap!!!!!

<drum roll please

My new SECRET interior project that I am going to do in the summer, it is not made for the 5-speed, and it looks BETTER as an Automatic.  I am doing this project because I like how the Auto looks, etc.

Still a secret.
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3100MPFI
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« Reply #8 on: February 18, 2007, 11:05:28 PM »

still don't want to reveal my secrets, but here is something to tantilize:

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5speedz34
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« Reply #9 on: February 19, 2007, 07:00:01 PM »

Nice pickup, how do you know the engine was rebuilt?

Also, why does your wheel have the newer olds rocket on it?
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1992 Lumina Z34
| 3.4L 207ci DOHC 60? V6; Getrag 284 |
1994 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP | 3.4L 207ci DOHC 60? V6; Hydra-Matic 4T60E |

3100MPFI
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« Reply #10 on: February 19, 2007, 07:10:05 PM »

It look sfreshly rebuilt because it has new parts in it.  If the engine was as old as the car, and untouched, it would not have a new timing belt, new timing belt tensioner, new cam gears, new gaskets, no carbon buildup, etc.

My steering wheel has the newer rocket because it is from a Silhouette.  I was updateing the car to use the Steering Wheel Controls, and since my car does NOT have the digital climate control I wanted to get an airbag that did not have the AC controls.  The silhouette is what I found.
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« Reply #11 on: February 19, 2007, 08:24:05 PM »

Quote from: "3100MPFI"
It look sfreshly rebuilt because it has new parts in it.  If the engine was as old as the car, and untouched, it would not have a new timing belt, new timing belt tensioner, new cam gears, new gaskets, no carbon buildup, etc.

My steering wheel has the newer rocket because it is from a Silhouette.  I was updateing the car to use the Steering Wheel Controls, and since my car does NOT have the digital climate control I wanted to get an airbag that did not have the AC controls.  The silhouette is what I found.


I never new silhouettes got that wheel.
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1992 Lumina Z34
| 3.4L 207ci DOHC 60? V6; Getrag 284 |
1994 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP | 3.4L 207ci DOHC 60? V6; Hydra-Matic 4T60E |

3100MPFI
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« Reply #12 on: February 21, 2007, 01:20:25 AM »

Yeah.  I think it came from a 1997.  My only complaint is that the backlighting is WHITE instead of ICE BLUE like MOST of the rest of the car.  I need to find a way to tint the bulbs for the STEERING WHEEL CONTROLS, and the HUD controls.  My headlight switch will light up ice blue, but my HUD controls are going to light up pontiac red.  I am thinking about using GLASS PAINT.  It is still transparent, and should work.  I know someone that did it before on a cluster, and it turned out really good.  I think he has to reapply it every 6 months or so, but small price to pay...
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DiscoStudd
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« Reply #13 on: February 21, 2007, 07:44:54 AM »

Man, I envisioned myself getting into projects such as the ones you're undertaking once I bought a house (you know, so I could keep my "project" in the garage torn apart without having to rush to get it finished.)  After I bought my house though, I completely lost my desire to do any car mods, as I'm more interested now in home improvement projects!  lol

Wonder if there are any 12 step programs for this affliction?  lol  I mean, I just took the first step by admitting I have a problem, right?  lol

Quick, someone give me some pointers on converting a 2004 Impala from column-shift to console-shift!!!
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Kevin B.
2004 Chevy Impala
1993 Chevy S-10
3100MPFI
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« Reply #14 on: February 21, 2007, 11:10:34 PM »

1.  Get the parts (shifter cable for the floor shifter, center console, shifter, new steering column (unless the columnshift can be removed, and covered).  You will also need the WIRING for the center console, and if you are as ANAL as I am about it, a new GAUGES cluster (unless the PRNDL is DIGITAL, and is ran off of the park/neutral switch instead of the cable driven like the older cars).  And if you car still uses it, you will need the park/lock CABLE.

You will also need to do something with the center section of the front seats (either replace the one with the BENCH, or if it is the split center, then remove the center, etc.).

Remove the steering column, and remove the shifter cable.  Run and connect the new shifter cable (keep in mind that you will have to do some things to the park lock parts of it, and if you are replacing the column, and your car has PASSKEY, then you will have to swap out the cylinders.

Install the new column and steering wheel, etc.

remove the front seats (makes it a lot easier to find out where you are mounting everything).  Pull back the carpet and locate the mouting points for the center console and shifter.  Cut the holes in the carpet for the shifter and console mounts, and run the shifter cable, and park lock cable (in used) under the carpet.  Lay the carpet back down, install the shifter, connect it, and do any adjustments to it.  Install the console, and the seats, and you are pretty much done (after testing it, of course).

At least, that is the basic way that I did it in my 1988 Cutlass Supreme, and I know a LOT has changed since 1988.
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