what would you do for first mod on a 3800 NA ?

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[DiscoStudd]

Forgot to mention that you should also put a straight pipe in place of the resonator when you chuck the U-Bend.  From what I've heard, it shouldn't cost you more than $100 total to have an exhaust shop weld in your U-Bend "delete" pipe, along with a stainless pipe in place of the resonator...

[Dstanic]

Dave, have you considered doing a L67/L32 top end swap? If not, you might want to read over on ClubGP or one of the other more 2nd Gen oriented boards about it. There are quite a few top end swapped cars these days and they're pretty quick with just the swap + a few other small things done.

If I wanted an L67, I would have bought a car that already had one

Forgot to mention that you should also put a straight pipe in place of the resonator when you chuck the U-Bend. From what I've heard, it shouldn't cost you more than $100 total to have an exhaust shop weld in your U-Bend "delete" pipe, along with a stainless pipe in place of the resonator...

Is the resonator THAT restrictive, or is it a issue with welding the U-bend delete to it?  My concern is that it might be louder without a resonator, and I like how quiet it is at the moment.

[DiscoStudd]

The resonator isn't as restrictive as the U-Bend, but it is still a restriction.  You should still see some good gains from just getting rid of the U-Bend and leaving the resonator in place...

[sl3196]

Getting rid of the U-Bend alone will gain you close to 20hp at the crank.  Dual exhausts are just for show on FWD GM's, so if you're looking for bang-for-the-buck, go with an FWI, U-Bend delete, and a DHP Stage 1 PCM.  That's a good start, anyways.  You can always go crazy on the engine later...

The ubend doesn't give you nowhere near 20hp lol.  Maybe 5.  The downpipe is really what helps out a ton.  I noticed nothing after doing the u-bend/res.  The 3" dp is what made the differance.  Downpipe or nothing imo.  Don't waste money on that u-bend.  Oh and dave leave your res on unless you want the raspiest car ever lol.  If I can find my vid I'll post it up but its what you don't want your exhaust to sound like lol.

[LownSlow]

yeah, downpipe/ubend/cat first.   the rest of the exhaust should be okay stock.    i would get larger injectors, a DHP powrtuner, and then tune it for E85
wait, do you have that up there?

an L32 top end on an L36 bottom end is a whole different animal than an L67.  just because you didnt buy an L67 doesnt mean anything.  i was going to buy an L36 park ave specifically to do an L32 top end.  and, btw, you dont have to run premium on an L32 (or L67 really), you just have to tune it.

[Dstanic]

I've driven some newer GTPs/GTs with the L32 and they really didn't seem any different than L67 from what I could tell.  Wikipedia even says "2004+ is no faster than the 1997-2003 Grand Prix GTP in stock form"
 Unless I find supercharger parts from someone on clubGP or something, it would be damn hard to just get the top end let alone find a 2004+ supercharged engine in the wreckers.

For the trouble I'd much rather turbocharge the car and get more power..

[LownSlow]

thats cuz theyre heavier.  they run about the same times.  more power w/ more weight = you know.   ed morad is your man for L32 parts.  i just like supercharger whine better than turbo spooling.   or better yet, get heads and LIM from an L67 and whipple it  

just messing. i know youve been wanting a turbo car for a long time so get what you want (obviously)