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Author *Topic: some JMB install pics and a review  (Read 817 times)
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TurboSedan(2) Euro(2)
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TurboSedan
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« on: December 06, 2007, 10:46:10 PM »

well i actually DID something to my GS today tongue

i had installed the JMB FWI a few months ago but never did securely attatch the blockoff plate to the fender.  there isn't really much need to anyway since it seems to stay in place, but the past few days it started rattling at low RPM, like when i was parked with the gear selector in 'D'.  i finally fixed that by using some nice weatherstrip from ACE Hardware.  worked really good, seems to stick to the powdercoated surface pretty well and no more rattling!  the JMB came with a couple pieces of stick on foam weatherstrip, but i didn't want to use those little tiny pieces.  the plate isn't yet perfectly flush with the fender so i still need to drill one hole and install a self tapping screw (probably tomarrow).  i also need to cover up a small hole in the inner fender liner so my wheel doesn't throw dirt/water up at the filter (from what i've read on regalgs.org some cars have that hole there, some don't).

btw, i chose the 'cast iron w/clearcoat' as the color for the JMB.  it matches the lower body of my Regal really nice and still looks somewhat factory underhood IMO.  i didn't want anything flashy.

to be honest i was initially disappointed with the JMB, but after figuring out how to install it i'd say it fits VERY well.  definately makes the S/C a whole lot louder even with stock pulley.  it is pretty annoying when the engine is cold though; it makes a loud 'sucking' noise but once it's warmed up you can't hear it (probably just IAC passage).  i also bought a PCM tray from the W-body store and a universal coolant overflow bottle but ended up not using them.  i just turned the PCM on its end and use a rubber bungi cord to hold it against the stock coolant overflow tank.  i seen a few other people do this and it seems to work fine and looks good.  oh, fwiw the directions say you have to cut a small pinch weld or something like that.  i didn't do any cutting at all.  all i did was use my foot to push in the part of the fender that stuck out, then i was able to get the filter in there no problem.  i do wish the filter itself had a longer neck.  i can barely get the clamp on as it is, and since the pipe goes through the blockoff plate at a slight angle i have to posistion the clamp just right in order to have the entire clamp's surface on the filter neck and still be able to tighten it with a nut driver.  no big deal though.  i can still change out the filter in 2 minutes.

here are some pics:



as you can see it sticks out in the upper corner:


me pointing to where i'll be drilling a hole for the self tapping screw:












the hole i need to cover up in the inner fenderwell:
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2000 Audi A6 Quattro - 2.7T/6-speed
1998 Buick Regal GS - L67/4T65E-HD
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« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2007, 07:29:33 AM »

That looks sweet!!  I remember you took the motor out of the car, what did you do to it exactly?
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TurboSedan
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« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2007, 07:49:05 AM »

i took the engine out because of the lower motor mount bracket.  all three bolts on the rear side were GONE, causing the motor rotate under accel/decel and then separating the passenger side inner CV boot.  since i couldn't possibly put the bolts in with the transmission in the way (believe me i tried) i figured the only way was to remove the engine, bolt the bracket on and drop it back down in there.

i wanted to do headers and cam while i was at it, but later decided that i should probably spend the money on moving down to Laramie to start school again.  besides, i had no car (just sold the Cutlass and the Trofeo at that time) and needed it on the road asap and i also spent ~ $1000 on the suspension so i figured cam/headers would just have to wait until later.
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2000 Audi A6 Quattro - 2.7T/6-speed
1998 Buick Regal GS - L67/4T65E-HD
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« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2007, 10:01:45 AM »

Ahh ok gotcha.  Nice fwi!!
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