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3100MPFI
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« Reply #1 on: April 13, 2009, 08:48:32 PM » |
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removing the dash pad is EASY.
To start with, remove the dash trim bezel around the cluster, and the radio.
There are 5 screws that go into the top of it. Some cars have phillps screws, which others have TORX. Yours should be the phillips (it is easiest to get them out with a stumpy/short phillips screwdriver).
Once the 5 screws are out, you just pull the top part of the bezel out, and then pull the bottom straight out. The bottom is held in with clips, and if your bezel has never been removed, it might take some effort to get them out. Once the bezel is popped out, disconnect the foglight/bass boost switch (if equipped).
If your car has a HUD, you will need to remove it. There are 2 screws that go into the bottom of it. Just remove them (in my car, they are 7mm bolts) and lift the HUD out, and unplug the connector.
Next, remove the defroster vent, and the diffuser. There are 2 7mm bolts in the defroster duct area. Remove those 2 screws (you can see them easiest if you look down into the defroster vent area from the exterior).
Open your glove box, and remove the complete comartment (it just lifts out). When it is out, you will find 2 7mm screws under it (in the flat area that the box sits in). You will also want to pull the glove box light switch straight out, and unplug it, then stick the wiring back into the hole.
There is also 1 7mm screw to the left of the CLUSTER, and there is 1 more to the right of the RADIO.
All in all, there are 5 screws in the bezel, 2 in the HUD, 6 in the dash pad, and the defroster light switch to remove.
Once you get all of that out, the dash pad can be pulled outward, and upwards to remove it.
Let me know if you have a HUD and I will tell you how to properly get it back in.
Also, one of the things that I did was use some small screws to screw the inside lip of the defroster area down. That has held it nicely.
I will try to get a pic tomorrow of what I did.
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