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Author *Topic: fixing the AC in the Regal GS  (Read 2292 times)
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TurboSedan(5) LownSlow(2) DiscoStudd(1) manicmechanic(1)
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TurboSedan
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« on: March 30, 2007, 11:04:11 AM »

i'm thinking i'm probably going to bring my Regal GS into the GM dealership on Monday to get an estimate on fixing the AC.  right now i can hear the compressor kick on/off, but it doesn't blow cold.  i figured it was out of refridgerant so Dan and i tried to refill it but the gauge on the kit said the pressure was too high too attempt to fill.  Sean told me that usually means a clogged orifice tube - hopefully that's all it is but why would the orifice tube get clogged in a sealed system?  do you think my compressor is probably shot?  i don't even want to think what GM would charge for a new one - should i get one from a salvage yard instead?  i know of several '97+ Grand Prixs and one Regal LS in the yard over in Buffalo i could get one from but maybe i should just buy a new one?

man i hope it doesn't cost too much to fix.  i have no idea what to expect.  i don't know anything about AC systems nor do i have the special tools to work on them so i'm at the mercy of having someone else fix it for me.  if i have enough left over i'm going to order new temp actuators as well (at least i can install those myself in about 10 minutes).  the plastic gears in mine (both sides) are cracked preventing the doors for heat/AC from opening/closing.
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« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2007, 11:59:27 AM »

hmm, i hate ac systems.  does the clutch spin when the ac is turned on? sounds plausable since the orifice is the filter in the system.
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« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2007, 02:29:16 PM »

If you replace the compressor and/or orifice tube yourself, you'll need to buy/rent/borrow a vacuum pump to pull a vacuum on the system.  Whenever you crack the AC system open, you need to pull 30"HG of vacuum on it for at least a half-hour to properly pull any moisture out of the system...
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« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2007, 04:01:19 PM »

Quote from: "DiscoStudd"
If you replace the compressor and/or orifice tube yourself, you'll need to buy/rent/borrow a vacuum pump to pull a vacuum on the system.  Whenever you crack the AC system open, you need to pull 30"HG of vacuum on it for at least a half-hour to properly pull any moisture out of the system...


there's no way i'm touching it lol  i'd probably just fuck it up worse.  anyway, i have an appointment to bring the car in next Friday to get an estimate.  while i was there i priced new temp actuators and they are $198 each!!! bash  fuck it might cost me $1000 just to get the HVAC system back in order :?
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« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2007, 04:09:49 PM »

after a second professional opinion:  orifice tube
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« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2007, 04:32:00 PM »

Quote from: "Low'nSlow"
after a second professional opinion:  orifice tube


man i really hope so.  it would be nice to just have the orifice tube replaced, then have the system vacuumed out and recharged.  i'm just really worried they are going to tell me i need a new compressor :neutral:
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« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2007, 04:57:30 PM »

btw, does anyone know if L36 and L67 AC compressors are interchangeable?  or if it matters whether it comes from a '97-'03 car, Bonneville, Park Ave etc.?
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« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2007, 07:54:26 PM »

Quote from: "TurboSedan"
btw, does anyone know if L36 and L67 AC compressors are interchangeable?  or if it matters whether it comes from a '97-'03 car, Bonneville, Park Ave etc.?


1996 to 2004 W body 3.8 only, but L36 and L67 compressors do interchange.
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« Reply #8 on: March 30, 2007, 08:11:50 PM »

cool thanks for the info.
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2000 Audi A6 Quattro - 2.7T/6-speed
1998 Buick Regal GS - L67/4T65E-HD
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