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Author *Topic: unfixable regal?  (Read 701 times)
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SofaKingWeToddDid
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« on: March 28, 2009, 10:56:44 PM »

ok... i know i have alot of problems with my ride.... but they all seem like $2 fixes!!! i have a check engine light on for codes 22 and i forget the other one, bad cam sensor code though, and TPS voltage low.... the TPS i THINK is because of my stereo, bass hits, volts drop down to about 11.80 or so.

so now on to the problem... my car stalls like it has a plugges fuel filter or something... at low speeds and low rpms if i take my foot off of the gas pedal (like in stop and go rush hour traffic or navigating a parking spot in reverse) it seems to just die. i can do it in park too if i hold the RPMs at about 1100, then drop my foot off the pedal,  sometimes  it just chugs a little then keeps on keepin on. but most of the time it dies...

NOW what ive done to try fix this problem
new TPS, cleaned idle air thinggy (right beside tps) new air and fuel filters new fuel pressure regulator and removed and cleaned throttle body, and replaced air sensor there too. MAF or whatever its called.... but still, always have this problem, AND it took my car MONTHS to get used to the new TPS and stop throwing tps voltage HIGH and LOW!! haha
i really wanna keep this beast, but its not lookin so good for her.
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« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2009, 11:01:03 PM »

OH, and i can contribute back a little... if anyone has any questions about trailer towing, hitches, fifth wheels, base plates, load handling air bags, or anything else you can think of that has to do with towing a trailer with pretty much anything with four tires on it, feel free to ask me. its my area of expertise.... now i know most of it is common sense, but sometimes people dont do things right even after reading everything they can, like with a dual cam weight distribution system... we have guys at my SHOP that cant set one up!! or wiring.... most of it is SOOO easy, but theres some cars that cant be wired AT ALL, like not even from the factory or dealership. and some that can be done quite easily if you know the shortcuts.

i can almost guarantee ive worked on what youre having problems with, if you are... unless its an air ride fifth wheel. we dont deal with those in canada as they dont stand up to cold very well.
and a reese 20k slider can tow smoother than almost anything else out there!! so why bother with complicating something simple with air pressure. lol
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« Reply #2 on: March 29, 2009, 09:08:03 AM »

id ohm check all the fuel injectors. have you tried an idle relearn? Try taking your system out and see if some of the codes go away, you may need to clear em first. If you have a new ECU, you may try it, because its seems to be setting alot of codes and if your sayin for no reason, then suspect, unless you have a damaged wiring harness or you havent replaced/checked the sensors that are throwing codes
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« Reply #3 on: March 29, 2009, 09:52:20 AM »

i dont know where the crank sensor is even, so i havent checked that, but all the other ones i have and replaced what i could, except for the idle air thinggy... i was told if i clean it with wd40 and steelwhool it would work like new, so i did... no change. the system thing might be my only idea.... but i would just pull the fuse for my amp under the hood... i aint taking it all out. lol WAY too much work for that....

i also heard this could be caused by a leaking intake manifold? any ideas?

now onto what you were sayin at the end there, how do i do an idle relearn, and when i ohm check the injectors, what sort of resistance am i looking for?

would i maybe have some bad plugs or coil packs or something?
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« Reply #4 on: March 29, 2009, 04:25:38 PM »

crank sensor is kind ahard to check, but its about halfway up the middle of the back of the block. I wasnt really aware that these engines had a Cam sensor, unless u ment crank sensor.

As far as the injectors, they shouldnt be any lower than 12 OHMs if they are, then there bad.
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« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2009, 04:35:50 PM »

Quote from: "Prospeeder"
crank sensor is kind ahard to check, but its about halfway up the middle of the back of the block. I wasnt really aware that these engines had a Cam sensor, unless u ment crank sensor.

As far as the injectors, they shouldnt be any lower than 12 OHMs if t hey are, then there bad.


I was under the impression the main symptom of a bad crank position sensor was dying once the engine got up to temperature, then not starting until it cools off.

Does it refire after it dies?
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« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2009, 05:39:50 PM »

its kindof an odd stalling problem, it can be hot or cold (the motor or the temp outside) and its only at lower rpms, but it starts just fine after. its like the gas or air is getting choked off for a quick second... sometimes its hard to make it stall, sometimes easy.
but when its on a bad day, i can hold the rpms at 1100 for like 2 seconds, then let off the gas and it dies. but it starts right after, if it doesnt die, then it revs down to almost nothing for half a second or so, then jumps back up.
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« Reply #7 on: March 29, 2009, 10:52:14 PM »

well if its throwing crank sensor codes....
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« Reply #8 on: March 29, 2009, 11:07:35 PM »

how easily can a crank sensor be changed? anyone have a pic of a location on a series 1 3800?
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« Reply #9 on: March 31, 2009, 09:58:26 PM »

ok, so i have two codes being thrown from my car, 22 and 41. the TPS is brand new, and its set properly, and i dont know forsure what the other one is... i have people here telling me there is no cam sensor on my car, that its the crank sensor. the list of codes i have says that through 93' code 41 is the cam sensor for 3800 engines.... does that make sense? is there a cam on these motors? where would it even be?
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« Reply #10 on: April 01, 2009, 03:50:40 PM »

so, does anyone else think this could be a bad ECM? thats going to be my next part i replace i think... or if someone can show me a picture pointing out the crank or cam sensor, which ever one my car has... lol
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