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Author *Topic: DupliColor "Paint Shop" paint system...  (Read 575 times)
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DiscoStudd(3) crazy k(2) WhattheFehl312(1) Jake91(1) SofaKingWeToddDid(1)
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DiscoStudd
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« on: September 16, 2009, 12:16:17 AM »

Has anyone here tried it before?  It costs $20/qt. each for primer, color, and clear.

I understand it's a laquer, but the vehicle I would be painting (my Blazer) is a beater to begin with, so I could give 2 shits if the finish didn't last more than 3 years.

Hmm, Harbor Freight has a gravity-feed spray gun for $25, and an HVLP gravity-feed automotive gun set for $60.  I'm daydreaming about turning my garage into a spray booth next spring!
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Kevin B.
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« Reply #1 on: September 16, 2009, 10:49:40 AM »

I'm not sure. The only automotive paint I'm familiar with is Plastikote because thats what we carry at my store. I'm considering painting my Grand Prix too. Most of my paint is okay, but in more than a few spots its kinda... crappy, especially along the palstic body cladding. I also have a few small rust patches that I want to patch and then paint it. If you saw the pictures in my "Show off" thread, the shot in the driveway is about as nice as I can get my car to look, it just doesn't shine up as nice as I'd like it too. If anyone knows anything that can help me short of paying a professional, that'd be nice.
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« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2009, 11:14:54 AM »

I had an old Grand Am that was showing a bit of rust just beneath the cladding, and once I got the cladding off, I was blown away by how much rust was hiding underneath it!  The rust forms around the rivets that hold the cladding's retaining clips to the door/fender/quarter panel.

Moral of the story:  remove the cladding and repair the rust underneath before you paint the whole car...
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« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2009, 01:02:46 PM »

Quote from: "WhattheFehl312"
I'm not sure. The only automotive paint I'm familiar with is Plastikote because thats what we carry at my store. I'm considering painting my Grand Prix too. Most of my paint is okay, but in more than a few spots its kinda... crappy, especially along the palstic body cladding. I also have a few small rust patches that I want to patch and then paint it. If you saw the pictures in my "Show off" thread, the shot in the driveway is about as nice as I can get my car to look, it just doesn't shine up as nice as I'd like it too. If anyone knows anything that can help me short of paying a professional, that'd be nice.

claybar and polishing compound. when i got my car you couldnt see your reflection in the trunklid noe you can use it as a mirror
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« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2009, 05:27:52 PM »

i think that is the paint that patgizz used on his crown vic. If so, it is shitty.
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« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2009, 11:31:38 PM »

Quote from: "crazy k"
i think that is the paint that patgizz used on his crown vic. If so, it is shitty.
What happened with it?
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« Reply #6 on: September 18, 2009, 07:56:28 AM »

Quote from: "DiscoStudd"
Quote from: "crazy k"
i think that is the paint that patgizz used on his crown vic. If so, it is shitty.
What happened with it?

if it is......  it turned kinda milky.

you should pm him and ask.
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« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2009, 04:10:13 PM »

i just use a 3 step polishing system... i use a yellow foam pad (cutting pad) on a power polisher (not an orbital polisher) it looks like a grinder with a big velcro thing instead of a grinding disc. with the cutting pad i use a cut polish (with the pad sprayed a little with water, not much) and i give er as best i can with this.... then step down to a white foam pad, and something not quite as abrasive as cut polish, maybe just a regular polish... then followed up with a nice oil based hand wax. personally i find the oil based ones easier to take off than anything else... you can see the streaks where its still on the car, if its dark paint. i let the hand polish stay on the car as long as it takes me to go around and apply it all. then when its all done, i go around the car and take it off in the same order i put it on in. using a Microfiber cloth, the best as far as im concerned.... if there is HEAVY oxidization (on anything but white paint) ill use some 1500 grit wet sand paper, then 1000 then go to the previous steps.

it takes more buffing than cutting. the cutting didnt really help too much with my car, it was newer paint. the buffing is where youre gonna get most of your shine form and the hand wax is what keeps it in, and brings up a little more of the shine too. clay bars help, they get rid of alot of the surface imperfections and take things like bugs and tar off.  it helps, but if the car is really clean already youre just gonna waste your time (IMO)
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