|
bake82
|
 |
« on: April 23, 2007, 08:36:19 AM » |
|
Hey,
I'm wondering if it's possible to put all the cladding from a 92 CS onto my 88.
I am positive that all the side cladding and rear bumber will work without an issue. I am planning on using the 92+ tailights and reverse bar.
After examing both my 88 and my newly purchased 92 parts car, the front bumber on the 92 is a little taller due to the mini quads. Also I know the hood on my 88 has a snout whereas the 92 doesn't. If I do this I want to use my 88 headlights. I will not go to the miniquads. I don't want to hear anybody suggest I should or that they like them better.
Is it possible to take the ribbed cladding off the front bumber to put onto my 88, or am I stuck with having to cut down the 92 bumber to make it fit with the 88 headlights?
Any help woul dbe great thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Kyle  1988 Cutlass Supreme, White/Black Leather, 3.1 Turbo 5 spd, coming soon 95k miles
|
|
|
|
Dstanic
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2007, 02:59:07 PM » |
|
Yes! 3100MPFI has cladding on his 88? Cutlass http://www.3100mpfi.com/
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Dave _ 2003 Impala LS_ berry metallic _ SERIES II 3800
|
|
|
|
bake82
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2007, 03:03:48 PM » |
|
Through looking around I found pics of his car. It's an 88 with the 92+ cladding! his site is down right now, but waiting for him to chime in with some tips!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Kyle  1988 Cutlass Supreme, White/Black Leather, 3.1 Turbo 5 spd, coming soon 95k miles
|
|
|
|
3100MPFI
Guest
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2007, 07:24:32 PM » |
|
I decided to cancel my site. I started to get a LOT of shit, and spam so I canceled it.   I need to redo my front bumper, but that is no big deal. I also prefer the look of the older hood, grills, and headlights over the miniquads. I am NOT the first to do this, but so far, I think I am the first to really have a lot of pics of it. I have a LOT MORE if you want to see them.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
bake82
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: April 23, 2007, 08:19:38 PM » |
|
I decided to cancel my site. I started to get a LOT of shit, and spam so I canceled it.   I need to redo my front bumper, but that is no big deal. I also prefer the look of the older hood, grills, and headlights over the miniquads. I am NOT the first to do this, but so far, I think I am the first to really have a lot of pics of it. I have a LOT MORE if you want to see them. That sucks about your site, but understandable! Well you're the first one I've seen! I'd love to see more pictures, especially if you have any of the process of putting the cladding onto the car. How did you do the bumper? Well I know you cut the 92+ down to size, but what did you use to cut it with? do you have any close up pics of the bumper? Also how were you able to attach the cladding to the car? I know I'll have more questions as I get into it, but this is it for now! Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Kyle  1988 Cutlass Supreme, White/Black Leather, 3.1 Turbo 5 spd, coming soon 95k miles
|
|
|
|
Dstanic
|
 |
« Reply #5 on: April 23, 2007, 08:38:21 PM » |
|
After owning the 95 GP I never want to see cladding again  Seriously though I love that gold Cutlass, it's hot (also not a fan of minquads).
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Dave _ 2003 Impala LS_ berry metallic _ SERIES II 3800
|
|
|
|
3100MPFI
Guest
|
 |
« Reply #6 on: April 23, 2007, 09:13:25 PM » |
|
I don't have any pics of the buildup process, but here are some BEFORE pics. The car was a BASE MODEL. Eventually, I will do a writeup of all the things I have done to this car. I will do how I did the bodykit in my next post.   
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
3100MPFI
Guest
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: April 23, 2007, 09:35:12 PM » |
|
Unfortunantly, when I moved from Long Island back to Texas, I lost a LOT of my pictures and shit. Some of my CD's got messed up, and the pic ones were with them.
Starting in the back because that is the easiest.
take the rear bumper off, and remove the surround that the liscense plate is attached too. You have to swap out the rear bumper inpact bar and the cushion for it. With the newer impact bar and cushion on, the newer bumper bolts right up with no other modifications. On the new taillights, and reverse bar, you have to use the newer nuts. The older stock ones are too big.
That is it for the rear bumper.
for the side cladding, when I removed the pieces from the donor cars (seeing that there was 3 cars that the panels came off of) I removed the clips that held everything in place. When I installed the clips, I used STAINLESS STEEL sheetmetal screws and washers. On the door caps, there is a metal bar along the bottom that the panel is screwed onto. Just remove the screws and lift the panel up to get them off.
I removed the rear panels, and popped the clips off. When I installed them on my car, I used a marker to help line everything up, and just used the sheetmetal screws to hold it all in place. I also painted all the parts before installing them.
the side panels, I did the lower parts first, then the door caps last. I did a lot of playing around with them before screwing anything in to make sure that nothing would rub.
after the side panels were on, I installed the REAR fenderwell trim pieces.
for the front bumper, remove the headlights, grills, and corner lights. Get the front bumper off.
I just measuered and marked off the top of the front bumper, and used a grinding wheel to cut the top section off. Remove the older front impact bar and cushion and install the newer ones.
Before I put the bumper on, I sanded the top middle of the cushion and applied double sided tape to hold the top down, but I used the wrong type, so when it got wet, it came off. I still need to redo it.
I installed the bumper, and then one by one installed the lights, and grills carefully, and trimmed off more of the cover when needed.
To top everything off, when I installed the newer inner fenderwell shrouds, I also swapped out the trim so that it was all the newer ones and did not have that fugly chrome strip still in it.
I think that is pretty much it. It is not that hard, but I took 2 days for the install. And I had another delay when my drivers door handle decided to finally break on me.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
bake82
|
 |
« Reply #8 on: April 23, 2007, 10:07:52 PM » |
|
Wow! awesome write up 3100MPFI. Thank you very much! IT doesn't sound too difficult, just time consuming to get everything lined up properly.
Now the final question for now is how do you get the cladding off the car. I mean the parts that are clipped on? Do they all screw into the body on the bottom and then clip up top?
I'm afraid of breaking the clips and having to buy new ones from GM. I'm sure they'd be $$.
Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Kyle  1988 Cutlass Supreme, White/Black Leather, 3.1 Turbo 5 spd, coming soon 95k miles
|
|
|
|
3100MPFI
Guest
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: April 24, 2007, 12:36:26 AM » |
|
Pretty much like you said.
You know the clips that hold the bottom of your bezel around the radio, and gagues in your Cutlass Supreme? The lower body panels are like that.
For all of the lower panels, you will just under the screws on the underside, open the door, and sort of pull out the bottom and then lift it up. They are kinda hard. I recommend finding a car to pull them off of first, and try it out before you go to get them off of the GOOD car donor.
for the door caps, you are just going to undo the screws at the bottom of the panel, pull it out to clear the metal bracket, once the bottom is loose (really easy), you just lift up.
They will come out pretty easy.
To get the clips off of the doors, you just look at them, and slide them off. There is like 2 pins in them. You just slide it to the round opening. I know it does not really make sense, but once you are doing it you will understand.
The ONLY difficult ones to get are the ones at the back of the front fenders (to get the body parts that go in front of the doors, but don't move when the door is opened). They have a NUT on the back of the fender. I think I was able to get it out with just a wrench, and spun it.
The metal brackets if memory serves me right, there is just screws that stick out from the body. You will take some nuts off, and they just come out. That is why I used the sheetmetal screws to put it back in.
Also, when I got the screws in while installing, I put some paint over them to help protect them.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Breakdown
|
 |
« Reply #10 on: September 11, 2007, 08:33:11 PM » |
|
I was thinking that this car when I first saw it was new cladding on an older CS, but this looks custom. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/17725/1
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
The Generation I 3.1L V6 was an astonishing feat of engineering as it had the best of both worlds: The power of a 4-cylinder, yet the fuel economy of a V8. 
|
|
|
|
Euro
|
 |
« Reply #11 on: September 12, 2007, 08:21:34 AM » |
|
I think that's an aftermarket body kit. It's been a long time since I've seen that car.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
bake82
|
 |
« Reply #12 on: September 13, 2007, 08:54:16 PM » |
|
I think that's an aftermarket body kit. It's been a long time since I've seen that car. Yah I think that had the Razzi kit on it. But I DO know that car has been dismantled and sold. The guy who did all the work bought a 97+ GTP and is having fun with it!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Kyle  1988 Cutlass Supreme, White/Black Leather, 3.1 Turbo 5 spd, coming soon 95k miles
|
|
|
|