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Euro
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« on: August 12, 2007, 05:25:03 PM » |
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I'm in desperate need of new rear brakes(55k miles and they've developed a nice grinding sound! ), but are unsure of what rotors to choose. I did front pads and rotors a couple months ago already, and went with Bendix for both. Now, they work pretty well(for $100 a rotor they fucking should), however the outer edges and middle developed surface rust a good like 2-3 weeks after we put them on. Now, for such an expensive rotor, shouldn't you think that they'd do something to at least prolong the cosmetic life of the rotor? The 55k mile rear rotors on the car now don't have a spec of surface rust on them either, which is surprising.
Now, I REALLY do NOT want to spend that for the rears again, especially if they're going to look like hell in a few weeks anyways. I found some Raybestos rotors for half the price, which are still a good brand right? I'm really leaning towards these (since they're cheaper...) and they've seemed to have gotten pretty nice reviews from what I could find. I'm not trying to seem like I'm being a cheap ass here, especially on something so vital to the car. What rotors have you Gen 2(or 1) guys used?
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sl3196
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« Reply #1 on: August 12, 2007, 05:42:57 PM » |
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I've always had good luck with napa white box special rotors. Only $20 or so a piece.
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2000 Grand Prix GTP  Mods: ZZP 3.4 S/C Pulley, DHP PCM, 1.9 Roller Rockers, Wizaired Intake,3" DP/No cat, U-bend/Res, 180 T-stat 240WHP/320WTQ 1989 Chrysler Lebaron GTS Headed to rehab... |
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19Cutlass94
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« Reply #2 on: August 12, 2007, 06:28:59 PM » |
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Ive got the SP slotted rotors and after 5K they look like new still. Plus they come with a coating to prevent rust  But it would be dumb to put slotted on the rear but not the front. But really, NAPA premium rotors are great rotors and wont give you any problems. Although believe me, you get what you pay for. The cheap rotors from any place are re-used scrap metal. The more expensive or premium ones are actual metal |
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Jay  1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme SL
3400 SFI v6 207ci -- 4T60- E
I have aftermarket parts on my car... Many aftermarket parts! |
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Euro
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« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2007, 07:09:22 PM » |
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 yeah my dad was like you could always get those cross drilled rotors.....but wait, having them on just the rears would look dumb lol. I'm just going to go with some $30 rotors with Bendix pads. Cheaper, yes....will it work for now...yes. Will I have to replace them sooner? probably.. oh well!!! thanks guys! |
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Dstanic
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« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2007, 08:39:57 PM » |
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I've always had good luck with napa white box special rotors. Only $20 or so a piece. x2 I put them on the Impala... and yes they rusted very quickly. I painted them with black VHT caliper paint, about 2-3months ago and it's still holding up. I priced out GM rotors (my cost) at work and they were fucking $90 each. I noticed the front brakes on my car (still original) have some sort of grey coating (paint?) they weren't too bad but I painted them to match anyways. |
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 Dave _ 2003 Impala LS_ berry metallic _ SERIES II 3800 |
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DiscoStudd
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« Reply #5 on: August 13, 2007, 10:19:23 AM » |
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I put Raybestos rotors on the 04 Impy with "Satisifed" Pro Ceramic pads, and the rear rotors warped again from those damn ceramic pads. I'm getting a set of PowerSlot Cryo-Treated rotors next time (with Hawk HPS pads.) Fuck all this cheap-ass shit! I'll be a GM loyalist until I die, but I'll be the first to admit their brake systems are weak, weak, weak! |
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 Kevin B.2004 Chevy Impala 1993 Chevy S-10 |
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Euro
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« Reply #6 on: August 13, 2007, 12:53:20 PM » |
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Yeah I'm afraid that the Bendix ceramic's will warp the cheaper rotors quicker.
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Dstanic
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« Reply #7 on: August 13, 2007, 03:08:12 PM » |
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I used semi-metallics on my GP (had new brakes put on in 2004) and it had zero problems, they wore nicely.
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Dave _ 2003 Impala LS_ berry metallic _ SERIES II 3800
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Euro
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« Reply #8 on: August 14, 2007, 01:21:38 PM » |
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That's what I ended up buying. HOWEVER, I could not get the old rotors off for the life of me. I beat the living fuck out of them for a while and then just gave up. Put the pads on and put everything back together. Works fine, although the inside of the old rotor is chewed up pretty well(not from me) and it's grinding a tad when stopping.
So, it's going in tomorrow to put the rotors on.
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19Cutlass94
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« Reply #9 on: August 14, 2007, 02:51:24 PM » |
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You should always put a grease on the inside of the rotor to prevent that!^^^
and yeah semi-metallics have always worked great for me
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Jay 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme SL
3400 SFI v6 207ci -- 4T60- E
I have aftermarket parts on my car... Many aftermarket parts! |
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Euro
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« Reply #10 on: August 14, 2007, 05:01:41 PM » |
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Yeah we've never put grease on the inside of the rotor, but on the caliper bolts, sliders, etc...
BUTTTTT These were 55k mile original rotors and pads...and the first owner was a douchebag....who didn't take care of the car...so that's why lol
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Topic: Rear rotors (Read 1929 times)
